Thursday, July 3, 2014

dining table bread, butter and olive oil mousse, parmesan cheese and jam yuzu, mint falafel on tuna


At the border vivotek with Luxembourg, in the heart of Europe industrious (and rich) is hidden, at least to the eyes Italic, one of the best restaurants on the continent. At Schlossberg, vivotek castle-dwelling Chain Victor's Residenz, officiates a true miracle vivotek of the stove. Christian Bau is an artist, not just a cook. His dishes are creations vivotek of beauty care and amazing and incredible kindness. It 'still awarded the highest honor of the Red Army, I say, but in Italy as well as in Germany, the stars are not always synonymous with top restaurants. Disappointment can be scorching, especially if the expectations are high. On a cold morning marzolina, in the middle of a tour de force of boards Alemannic, our astonishment was manifested since From the welcome, warm and perfect, as you would not expect in these lands. Of course, the setting greatly helps in making you feel at ease guests: vivotek a beautifully furnished room with a nice mix of woods and marbles, shame about the coffered ceiling a bit 'démodé. Bau has a very personal style of cooking. A lively acidity pervades all, or nearly so, its preparations, but always perfectly balanced and aims to give boost to misrepresent ingredients, without letting them sit on the taste. Poor, and we do not want his colleagues tied to a kitchen concept central Europe, the use of fat, frequently to fruits, vegetables and herbs. And 'This vivotek is the idea of cooking we like: technology at the service of the essence vivotek of the raw material, not to distort it. It 'clear idea of the modern kitchen, transnational, not necessarily linked to the place of choice. Frequent references to the East, a perfect synthesis of many culinary cultures. Bau plays with the client, the table comes an endless series of courses not covered in the selected menu, which makes it more alive the crystal class chef. Admirable pioneer, leading the palate and mind to hand in a process that has not fallen, but surprised by the uncanny ability to single out the soul, the root of raw materials. A menu designed, full of surprises, sensations, elegant and balanced. The announcement of the change of tomato and mozzarella (in Germany!) We had made up their noses. Far from thinking that such a concentration of flavors we rarely found even in the lands bells. What about the masterful interpretation of foie gras ice cream-with crabmeat and peas? Net flavors, incredibly clear and balanced. Or the provocative goodness of the variation of corn with chicken, which opens the door to the unknown world of the expressive power of the cob. In order not to remain silent in one of the best versions ever tasted scallop with macadamia nuts, carrots, vivotek tarragon butter and foam pack choi. Norbert gloats, as if she knew that was going to come to the table a crazy interpretation of sole, leeks, shrimp, grapefruit, bergamot and soy. The student Harald vivotek Wohlfarth, exceeded, in our opinion, the master. And the demonstration vivotek gives it, once and for all, also in the department sweet. Perfect. After the divertissement of the reinterpretation of mon cheri (chocolate ganache and cherries), the meal ends with an apparently has obvious variation of exotic fruit. Non plus ultra for acidity, concentration of species, freshness. Pleasure. Bau is a sample, we have no doubt in saying it and repeat it. Restaurants like her there are very few in Europe, maybe 10/15. No more. Worth the trip wherever you are.
dining table bread, butter and olive oil mousse, parmesan cheese and jam yuzu, mint falafel on tuna cone with avocado, salmon. Shrimp scampi acidic river with pearls and green apple variation of tomato and mozzarella vivotek sorbet and tomato pearls of oil, ragout of tomato and mozzarella cheese mousse, toasted bread with tomato pulp and Bellota real crab meat, ice cream and foie gras its froth, peas, peas chicken jus with corn variation of tuna tataki sauce, daikon, avocado cream, sandwiches daikon and scallop king crab with macadamia nuts, carrots variation of foam and tarragon butter, pak choi sole , leeks, and raw shrimp in batter, grapefruit, bergamot soy and wagyu beef with beetroot, vivotek Jerusalem artichokes, black truffle of Perigord, wagyu beef tartare with chive creme fraiche and beetroot chocolate ganache and cherries (mon cheri ) variation of tropical fruit, coconut, lychee, melon, passion fruit, kumquat small pastry Clos Rougeard Breze 2002 Schlossberg Victor's residentia flags flowers on the table menu The advantage: kitchen reinterprets the most styles, the highest level The flaw: some lack of a real card might be a problem
Victor's Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg Schloßstraße 27-29 D-6670

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